Like yesterday, the gentle rapping on our wall begins promptly at 5 a.m. "I don't want to get up," B complains. But we do. The kitchen staff has made an effort to accomodate us todayThere are pieces of warm steak on the breakfast buffet, so I eat a steak sandwich for my protein, fueling up for today's long walk. I rub some Deep Woods Off on my hat and clothing, and splash citronella on my skin. I am resigned to getting new mosquito bites on top of the old today.
Continue reading "Sunday, February 10 - Tambopata Reserva, Lago Sandoval, Concepcion Farm" »
The staff early-bird knocks on the side of our bungalow at 5 a.m. Time to get dressed and have breakfast before we set out for the canopy walk. We dress, but for the wellies, and head for the dining room, where it seems that the staff must be as reluctant as we to rise so early. Jane, Don, B and I are the only customers. We are breakfasted and ready to walk by 6:15.
Continue reading "Saturday, February 9 - Canopy Walk and Wetlands, and a Farm Visit" »
Today we made the short flight from Cuzco to Puerto Maldonado, where we will catch our ride down the Madre de Dios river to our jungle resort in Peru's Amazon basin. The resort, Reserva Amazonica, is operated by an outfit called Inkaterra. Inkaterra has a number of enterprises going on its 10.000 hectare (~25,000 acre) property along the river; facilities to support researchers studying frogs or plants or insects; creating industries in the native village, for example extracting and bottling Inkaterra's own "Citronella Splash" natural insect repellent.
Continue reading "Friday, February 8 - Puerto Maldonado, and Rio Madre de Dios to Reserva Amazonica" »
We are ready at 5:30 a.m. for our ride to Cuzco. When the van has not arrived by 6:30 a.m., Senora Julia, the proprietor of our hotel, Munay Tika, shoos us to the breakfast room. Breakfasted, we return to the spacious hotel lobby (once a bar) and we read and play with the computer, waiting. At 8 a.m. we telephone our Explorandes contact. He will call the office and call back to let us know what is happening. Finally we get the news - our ride will arrive at 2 p.m., more-or-less. We manage to have a conversation with Senor Julia in our mixed Spanish and English. We talk about today's protest, and what it means.
Continue reading "Thursday, February 7 - Waiting" »
The day is bright and sunny, and our guide is not picking us up until 9:30, so we enjoy a leisurely breakfast and, dodging the moto-taxis, we walk up to the espresso shop. It is a surprisingly urbane shop, in row of shops below the ruins, in the square that hosts the stalls selling tourist Inca crosses, hats, t-shirts, and other souvenirs of this site. The owner tunes in the radio so that we can hear primary election results; we ask for CNN but end up with Fox News.
Ollantaytambo was the site of the last battle between the Inca and the Spaniards. Perhaps for that reason, the site is described as a fortress. Although it does certainly have military value, we will come to discover that it is more a great temple.
Continue reading "Wednesday, February 6 - Ollantaytambo" »
Last night it rained - really rained - or so they tell me. The noise of the river smashing its way over the rocks behind our hotel was so loud that we didn't hear the rain - even with the tin roof outside our balcony.
By the time our bus arrives at Machu Picchu, most of the mist has dissipated and we are on our way to a beautiful morning. Today our choices are to climb Huynapicchu, the mountain that sits just behind the main plaza of the city; or to hike to Intipunku, the "Gate of the Sun", on the trail from Cuzco to Machu Picchu. Since B has climbed Huynapicchu before, we select the latter.
Continue reading "Tuesday, February 5 - Machu Picchu" »
We started early this morning - our train, the backpacker special, left Cuzco at 6:40 a.m. The journey to Aguas Calientes, the end of the line, takes about 4 hours. The scenery, unlike that on most train trips, was lovely.
Continue reading "Monday, February 4 - Machu Picchu" »
Today our driver picks us up at 8:30. It will be just the two of us with our guide. Whew! Today we visit lesser-known places southeast of the city, but still in the Department of Cuzco. We wait for our guide, Paulo, at Plaza San Blas. While we wait we sample one of the local tamales. Delicious - the masa tastes of sweet corn and the filling is ground meat and onions. It melts in the mouth.
Continue reading "Sunday, February 3 - South of Cuzco" »
Today we flew from Lima to Cuzco, a short flight of about 55 minutes, from sea level to 11,000 feet. Cuzco, is nestled in a verdant valley. It is the rainy season here, but if what we see today is any indication, that doesn't discourage any tourists.
Continue reading "Saturday, February 2 - Cuzco" »
I'm not sure what we did with our day, but it was fun. We went shopping for a duffel bag at the Persian Market, a large indoor collection of stalls that sells just about everything.
Continue reading "Friday, February 1 - Lima" »