We stayed here at the Anderson Valley Inn, a place out of time, tucked up on a shady hillside in Philo, CA. Mein host, Bob, is a most genial innkeeper, and his wife Lydia and mother Clover are also good company. The rooms are nicely done, and the grounds offer benches and nooks for sitting and relaxing. The price is also right. If you’re looking for television, internet, and coffee in your room, this is not the place for you. But, that said, there’s espresso and internet service just 5 miles down the road in Boonville, as well as good beer from the Boonville Brewery. I like the amber ale, and B. likes the hoppy ale. Dinner at the Highpockety Ox ("A Civilized Saloon"), accompanied by said beer, hit the spot on our first night. For more info on the Inn and the area, visit Anderson Valley Inn.
Bob recommended a couple of hikes, among them the Hendy Woods trail (posted separately) and a jaunt down to the shore at Elk. He also recommended some wineries. Top on his list is Esterlina, and of course Navarro is immensely popular.
So we walked (could hardly really call it hiking) in the mornings, returned to our room at the Inn to clean up, and then tasted in the afternoons. The first day we started with Esterlina (call for an appointment) where we were instructed to tell them that Bob from the Anderson Valley Inn sent us.
We were treated to a personal tasting on the deck high above the Anderson Valley, pinot noir grapes flourishing in the vineyard below the deck. The owner’s wife, Doris Sterling, poured for us, and she proved to be a font of knowledge. We really enjoyed her stories and she had the answers to all our questions. The Sterling family (Esterlina is the Latin for Sterling) has been growing grapes for several generations, and making wine here for 10 years. The business employs the whole family. One son does marketing, another the viticulture, and a third is the winemaker. The wines were uniformly well made, and the setting was superb. The family also runs a Dry Creek winery, Everett Ridge, and owns a variety of vineyards. For more info, see Esterlina Vineyards.
From there we descended the hill, where we made stops at Handley Cellars (looking for the gewurtztraminer I remembered from a long-ago dinner) and at Roederer for some bubbly. Here our sommelier, Rett, promised to let us know how the estate pinot is shaping, once he concludes his experiment with multi-day decanting.
Next morning, we drove over to the coast to Elk. Immediately we spotted the trail to the beach. As we strolled beach-ward, the fog began to roll in. Whilst on the beach, two fellows wheeling a kayak on a bicycle-wheeled carrier offered us a hidden cave tour. We demurred; they unloaded the kayak and paddled off. Back on the bluff top, we elected to stroll through the town. Elk? Greenwood? The signs all seemed to say Greenwood. Mystery solved – we spotted a book in a local shop that told us this is the town with two names. I wasn’t, however, curious enough to buy the book, so I still don’t know why the town has two names.
Back in the Anderson Valley, having enjoyed the drive on the Philo-Greenwood Road both ways, we stopped briefly at Navarro to taste and order Deep End Pinot futures, and then at Husch, where we much enjoyed that family winery’s offerings.