We started our stay in Argentina's capital city with a walk to the famous Plaza de Mayo, and the seat of power for the government, the Casa Rosada. You will see that it deserves its name. Isa, who lived in Buenos Aires until age 19, tells us that in Evita's (Peron) time it was a much prettier pink. We take photos of fountains, monuments, statues, and cathedrals that populate the square and its boundaries.
We continue our walk toward the renovated old port area, Puerto Madero. This sadly disappoints. While there are any number of restaurants along the old berthing area, they are uniformly overpriced - U.S. prices in an Argentine economy. Isa asks a pair of guards if all the restaurants here are like this. Their answer - yes. So we flag a radio taxi and go out past the airport and the modern port area to the Costera promenade along the river. It is windy but pleasant, as it has been warm. We check out the restaurants, unable to make a decision. Finally, at 8:30 p.m., scandalously early for Buenos Aires, we settle on La Estancia. The menu combines Argentine parilla (barbeque) and Italian dishes, and the chef is Irish.
We begin with two of the traditional sausages of the parilla, served with a variety of condiments. The condiments are delicious - carmelized garlic, chimicurri, pickled sweet potatoes, chunks of eggplant in a vinegar sauce. The rest of our meal comes from the Italian side of the menu - pasta, gnocci, ravioli, and stuffed chicken. A good dinner, well cooked and well presented.
Today we get a late start. Our plan is to do what many Buenos Aires families do when the weather in the city is stifling - escape to the river delta. We elect to take public transportation rather than a tour. We start with a stroll to the Subte (Metro), where we take the "C" line to the end, "Retiro" (Return). There we get the train to Tigre. About two-thirds of the way there, we are all ushered off the train; it is broken, somehow. We wait for the next train, and crowd on board. At least on this train the a/c works!
Once arrived at Tigre, we stroll through the tourist attractions, and by a gigantic McDonalds. After some debate, we buy tickets for a catamaran tour of the delta. The catamaran ride is pleasant. We are on the top deck under a shade. We pull out of the crowded dock area, and past the derilict ships and the amusement park. Now we are in the resort area.
The banks of the river are lined with hotels and hostals, each with its dock. Some look very prosperous, and others not so well kept.
There are a few abandoned areas as well, where the rank grass grows thick and the retaining walls are badly eroded. We are somewhat disappointed - it's all too civilized.
We return via the Tren de la Costa, a smaller train that parallels the river's course. We expected scenery, but like trains everywhere, the right-of-way runs between an urban belt and the industrial coastal buildings. At least here the suburbs are prosperous. At the end of the line, we catch the regular train to Retiro, and again the Subte to Moreno station. A short walk later, we turn onto Mexico and arrive at our hotel.
The plain wooden doors, without a sign, give no indication of what lies within. Open, the doors reveal a series of courtyards, with rooms along the right side.
The courtyards are tiled, the room doors tall and wooden. The ceilings of the room are high, and there is both air conditioning and a ceiling fan. The showers here are wonderful - large, tiled, and having abundant water pressure. We fuss with our computers, and get ready to go out for tango lessons at 9. Ooh, la la!
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